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The Bakhtiari mountain herding nomads hail from what is modern-day Iran. Dating back to the 15th century, the tribal name means “one who brings good fortune.” It is fitting then, that the clans who traveled to new locations twice a year designed these beautiful vessels for transport. What was necessary became fine art with this uncommon combination of study and luxurious set of hold-alls. First, the shoulder bag, a mixed weave of goat and sheep wool that has lasted 80 years. Next, the 70-year old spice bag in rich red. And two 80-year-old saddle bags, each with three different techniques: knotted carpet, embroidered front face, and Kilim backing. Quite an exquisite presentation for the “one who brings good fortune” and a powerful identity marker for the traveler. The beauty belies the harsh conditions the tribe pushes through as they search for pastures to feed their livestock and themselves. Before the Iranian Revolution in 1979, tribal women gained greater agency as skillful weavers earning important income for their work. Collectors clamored for these designs until the Revolution abruptly ended the trade. Women’s rights have deteriorated among the Bakhtiari, as among all women residing in Iran. Numbers vary, but several million Bakhtiari live in Iran; they are Shia and an ethnic minority.
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